Photos et lettres des Philippines, de France et d'ailleurs

From Dumaguete to Kabankalan via San Carlos, Canlaon and Isabella. June 3 and morning of June 4.

The date of my departure was approaching and I had previously made only short road trips and I wanted to go farther for a two to three days trip. So I decided to go to San Carlos to the north along the east coast and then crossing the mountains by Canlaon towards the west coast and come back home from the south of the island. This would be my fourth tour of Negros including a full one of 750 km and two reduced ones of around 650 km.
A Swiss friend had told me that the road through the mountains and Canlaon was good because he had made it himself with a motorbike.  Twice previously I had taken the beautiful mountain road more to the north passing by Don Salvador and Murcia towards Bacolod, where in good weather the scenery is magnificent.

(Ma Pajero during the road trip)

I love this aspect of the Philippines, off the beaten track, camera in hand, therefore on June 3 in the morning, I left alone going first to Dumaguete then taking the way to Bais and San Carlos. I was alone because it is sad to say that my expatriate friends are rather kind of homebody and not tempted by my trips. It is not always easy to travel alone with an old vehicle, especially when taking isolated roads where a small mechanical problem may take alarming proportions. I have to add that my Pajero,  a Japanese surplus of 1995 and which steering wheel had been transferred from right to left, has not shown the past five years to be an example of reliability and has undergone numerous failures, including a engine overhaul. I tried to sell it several times, but rising fuel costs and poor reputation of Japanese surplus vehicles combined with that of local importers failed to attracts buyers unless and I would have had to almost give it for free.
So I took the road at 7.20 am and I quickly began to regret it because it took me three hours to cover the first 90 km. It must be said that the huge project of concreting all the main roads of Negros is underway.

(Bridge and road under work)

During my previous rides of Negros, many of the asphalt roads were badly damaged by rain and the numerous trucks carrying sugar cane to the sugar mills. Today they are being rebuilt and asphalt replaced by concrete slabs less fragile.

(Road newly concreted)

When this is completed Negros will have a quality road infrastructure but in the meantime it is not fun for drivers. It is true that one must be French to grumble, Filipinos calmer grin and bear it while swallowing dust.

Beach near Guilhungan, 50 km from San Carlos)

Over five and a half hours later and 200 kilometers, I arrived in San Carlos just in time for lunch and I took a room at 940 pesos (€ 15) in YM Business Inn, nice and clean though a little small..

http://www.yayang4ever.com/ymbusinessinn/

Located on the coast along the Tañon Strait in the province of Negros Occidental, the city is at the crossroads of four major cities of the Visayas: Cebu City, Bacolod city, Iloilo city and Dumaguete city. The municipality (district) has a 40 km coastline protected and closely monitored due to the reforestation program of mangroves. The city has a population of 120 000 inhabitants, probably the total population of the district because there is little traffic on the main large streets also used by many tricycads (tricycles with pedals), no polluting but without lighting at night.
San Carlos is also known for its Pintaflores festival which takes place every year from November 3 to 5 and where street dancers are dressed in costumes with floral motifs. This tradition is meant to recall an old custom of Visayas before the Spanish colonization.
I took some rest to recover a little from my journey and then under a threatening sky I just wandered to Center Mall where there is a huge and beautiful park but not yet a shopping mall as its name might suggest.

(Center Mall, Paseo de Flores)

Then I went to visit for the first time the People's Park which has the originality to have been reclaimed from the sea, with the backfill from the construction of the new port.

(People Park, old locomotive used before by the sugar cane mills)

(People Park, the restaurant)

I went back to the hotel and later on I left for dinner under a rainstorm in an Italian restaurant, La Grotta, run by a German barely speaking English. In any case, my pizza was excellent.
I went to bed perplexed about the next steps in my journey because I did not want to continue through the mountains in the rain particularly bad conditions for driving and photography.
At sunrise, it was an in-between weather with lots of clouds but nevertheless, I decided to continue my trip. I therefore drove down 20 kilometers south to Vallehermoso where I took the mountain road towards the town of Canlaon 20 km far away from the highway.

(The mountain road to Canlaaon)

(As often here the young girls get the water)

In addition to sugar cane plantations, northern Negros has also imposing mountains from which impressive solitary volcanoes thrust upwards into the sky their shredded craters.
The road was also often reconstructed but with beautiful scenery. Unfortunately the sky was often overcast.  Making good pictures is also being lucky and being in the right place at the right time with the best lighting conditions. It was not always the case for me on this trip where I couldn't await more favorable weather before continuing my way. Calaon City is located southeast of Mount Kanlaon, a volvano that reaches 2465 meters at its highest point and in the heart of the national park of the same name. The park is working to preserve different types of forests, including tropical forests natural habitat of countless species. It sad to say but 96% of the Negros forest has been destroyed in one century. Mount Kanlaon is the only volcano on the island still active and erupted 25 times since 1886. Canlaon City is a starting point for hiking to the summit and to visit the park. Different paths lead there and in addition to the main crater, an ancient crater, and several mountain lakes will not fail to amaze hikers going so far. It is preferable to have at least three days for the ascent of the summit. Once there, the brave climber is rewarded for his efforts with a magnificent view over the jungle, the sea and neighboring islands of Cebu and Panay.

(Mount Kanlaon)

After leaving Canlaon City I took the direction of Moises Padilla and I returned for the second time in the province of Negros Occidental after San Carlos. Then going through huge sugar cane plantations, I went to the town of Isabella and her strange church before reaching Himamaylan and the west coast of the island.

(Sugar cane plantation)

(Church of Isabella City)

During the trip I stopped frequently to take photos often marred by cloudy skies.
Now I needed to head south to the city of Kabankalan where is buried a compatriot, François Glen, murdered at 82 years in his house of Bacong in November 2008 for 5000 pesos (80€).

(Mangoes trees plantation)

(Mangoes picking workers)

I arrived at noon and it was now time to rest and eat. I took a hamburger and fries washed down with Sprite and I fill up my Pajero's tank before heading for Sipalay.

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